This year we picked Orkney for our summer holiday — more specifically the Isle of Hoy. Mum, Dad, two teenagers, Gran, Grandad and three cocker spaniels (Mac and Bute are ours; Harris belongs to my parents)… I hope you’re ready, Orkney, because here comes a whirlwind.

We ummed and ahhed about destinations for weeks, but we’re forever saying we need to explore more of our own beautiful Scotland. We talk endlessly about visiting more islands, so eventually the planning began for the long trip north‑east.

🚗 The Journey North: Choosing Our Route

First decision: where to sail from? Do we make the slightly shorter drive to Aberdeen and settle in for the 7‑hour ferry journey? Or do we head for Scrabster in the far north‑west and board the short 1.5‑hour NorthLink crossing to Stromness?

We chose the latter — and decided to set off two days early for a bit of exploring.

Lulu the Transit Custom was packed and stacked like a Jenga tower, and at 07:30 we rolled out of Mid Argyll, dogs excited, teenagers half‑awake, and Mum and Dad fuelled by coffee.

After a steady drive north with plenty of stops, we arrived at Glengolly Pods, just outside Thurso. A working farm, sea views, and the kind of peace you only get in the far north — first impression: awesome.

🛏️ Glengolly Pods: The Perfect Stopover

Our pod, The Foxes Den, was a wee slice of luxury. Inside we had everything we needed and more:

• full‑size bathroom and shower
• double bed and sofa bed
• smart TV and DAB radio
• kettle, microwave, air fryer, hob and toaster
• hair dryer, robes and slippers
• and a Scottish hamper of Irn‑Bru and Tunnocks wafers left on the kitchen counter for our arrival — magic.

Outside, an enclosed garden with seating, a small BBQ, and an enormous hot tub already heated and ready to go. After a quick trip to Lidl five minutes down the road, we settled in for a long soak and an early night before our surfing lesson the next day.

The grandparents, meanwhile, opted for the grand Ulbster Arms Hotel, a classic country house hotel. They couldn’t speak highly enough of the breakfasts — especially the omelettes.

📸 John O’Groats: Busy, Bustling & Not What We Expected

Friday arrived and with a few hours to spare, Lulu carried us to John O’Groats for the obligatory photo at the famous signpost. The drive was stunning — sea, beach and cliff views all the way.

John O’Groats itself was… not what we expected. Busy, touristy, commercialised. Hundreds of cars, bikes and people. Shops and cafés selling Scottish souvenirs at inflated prices, clearly aimed at the hordes of American and European visitors.

It’s still memorable, surrounded by endless views, but the popularity has taken away some of the magic of being at the isolated, rugged tip of the UK. We weren’t there for shopping, so after a wee explore and a few photos, we moved on.

🌬️ Dunnet Head: Wild, Windswept & Wonderful

Now this was more our style.

Wild, windswept, breathtaking and blissfully quiet. A lighthouse dominates the moody grey skyline, perched on cliffs that drop hundreds of metres to the crashing white sea horses below. Thousands of seabirds nest, dive and swoop — puffins, razorbills, gulls and guillemots to name a few.

Across the water, the dramatic cliffs of Hoy were visible, looking close enough to touch.

🏄 Surfing at Dunnet Beach: Our First Attempt

At 12:30 we headed for Dunnet Beach, where we met our instructor Jake from West Coast Watersports. This was our first time surfing, and we’d booked a two‑hour lesson at £60 per person, including all equipment.

Kitted up and ready to go, we grabbed our boards and headed to the sand for some dry‑land instruction. The atmosphere was relaxed, and one teenage daughter was very amused that Jake described absolutely everything as “sick”.

Into the sea we went to practise our up, slide and glide, chicken wings and leading foot. And honestly? It was “sick”, as Jake would say.

The waves were about four feet — tiny from the shore, but once you’re in them, they’re relentless and more than a match for us newbies. There was a lot of falling, laughing, splashing, and the occasional moment where one of us actually stood up long enough to feel like a pro.

Suitably shattered in a pleasing, accomplished way, we headed back to the pod for a shower and change of glad rags before going out for a bite to eat at The Red Pepper in the Holborn Hotel in Thurso. With the option of bar or restaurant, we chose the bar and a cold beverage. Mains were around £15–£20, and the food was fresh, hot, hearty and tasty — exactly what you want from home‑cooked pub grub. A big shout to the staff who were friendly, helpful and attentive.

⛴️ Crossing to Hoy: Sea Spray, Excited Spaniels & Island First Impressions

After our surfing triumphs (and many wipeouts) the day before, it was finally time to head for Hoy on the 1:30pm NorthLink ferry. We rolled into Scrabster with sandy hair, tired arms and three cocker spaniels who had so far explored every beach from Inverness onwards.

The towering ferry was already humming with activity — cars, campervans and motorbikes lining up, families stretching their legs, and that familiar salty, hair‑ruffling breeze that tells you you’re heading somewhere special. This was the first leg of the crossing, as there is no direct ferry to Hoy, so we boarded for Stromness on the Orkney Mainland.

The crossing itself was rolling, with a gentle swell reminding us that the endless sea rules this part of the world. The teenagers made sure they could access the free Wi‑Fi, while we settled in with Gran and Grandad and a brew. We chose to leave the dogs in the van, though there is a bookable dog lounge and various kennels available for a reasonable fee.

As we approached Stromness, the cliffs of Hoy rose ahead of us — dramatic, dark and impossibly steep, like something carved by giants. We sailed closely past the Old Man of Hoy, the impressive and ancient stack looming down on us and making us feel tiny and insignificant in comparison.

Even from the deck, you could feel it: Orkney has a different energy. Wilder. Quieter. A place that doesn’t perform for tourists — it just is.

🏘️ Stromness: A Charming Pause Before Hoy

With a couple of hours to spare, we explored Stromness — and I’m glad we did. It was everything you want from an island fishing village: narrow streets, cobbled roadways, nooks and crannies filled with flower pots, and houses built at odd angles to shelter them from the next impending storm.

Quaint coffee shops, local craft stores selling handmade products from island artists, and plenty of character. There are also mainstream amenities — a high school, gym, swimming pool, Co‑op — so you’re never stuck for practicalities.

Taken in by Stromness, it was time for the short drive to Houton and the 35‑minute Orkney Ferry to Lyness on Hoy.

🏡 Arriving on Hoy: Peace, Space & Island Stillness

Arriving on Hoy, the feeling changed again. Silence. Peace. Empty roads. A sense of isolation. A place still relatively undisturbed by the modern world, apart from the obvious influence and legacy of wartime naval history.

The drive from the ferry to our accommodation was one of those journeys where everyone goes quiet. Not because they’re tired — but because the scenery steals the words right out of you.

Rolling hills. Wide open moorland. Sea on both sides. And that unmistakable island stillness — the kind that makes you breathe deeper without even realising.

Our accommodation, The Noddle (AirBnB), was exactly what we needed after days on the road: cosy, quiet, and surrounded by views over the bay that made you want to fling the doors open and just stand there for a minute. The dogs did several laps of the garden before we’d even unpacked the car.

Inside, we settled into our rooms, claimed beds, argued over who got the best view, and immediately put the kettle on — because we’re Scottish and that’s what you do.

🌟 Hoy Highlights: The Best Bits of Our Island Adventure

Hoy gave us history, scenery, good food, emotional moments and more than a few laughs. These were our top highlights — the places and experiences that made the island unforgettable.

1. Scapa Flow Museum — History That Hits Home

This museum completely opened our eyes to the importance of Scapa Flow during both world wars. The building itself is impressive, and inside you’ll find an enviable collection of wartime artefacts, local history and stories of the people who lived through it all. It’s the kind of place that makes you stop, read and really think. And the café? Excellent. The chocolate brownies alone deserve their own mention — absolutely delicious.

2. Rackwick Bay to the Old Man of Hoy — A Walk Worth Every Step

This was, without doubt, one of the highlights of the holiday. The walk from Rackwick Bay to the Old Man of Hoy is roughly six miles there and back, and the scenery is nothing short of spectacular. Fearsome cliffs, dramatic sea views, and that wild Hoy atmosphere that makes you feel like you’re on the edge of the world. The best part? My 70‑year‑old mum completed it — and loved it. Proof that it’s challenging but absolutely worth the effort.

3. Longhope Lifeboat Museum — Moving, Powerful & Full of Heart

This small museum packs an emotional punch. It’s sad to learn about the Longhope disaster, but the way the story is told is incredibly moving and respectful. The old lifeboat is still inside the museum, and visitors can climb aboard and explore it. Standing inside it, knowing what happened, is a moment that stays with you.

4. Emily’s Café & Restaurant — A Gem Just Minutes from Home

A superb little restaurant just a five‑minute walk from our accommodation. Beautiful décor, warm personal service, and a small but thoughtful menu of local produce paired with carefully selected wines. Cocktails also available — always a bonus, and we can recommend the Espresso Martini. The food was excellent quality, and the views out to the bay were second to none. Emily herself is moving on to new adventures (and a wedding to plan!), so the business and house are currently for sale — but if you’re visiting while it’s still open, booking is definitely advisable.

5. Day Trip to Kirkwall — Busy, Bustling & Full of Character

The ferry timetable limited how long we could spend in Kirkwall, but we made the most of it. We took the van over on the Lyness to Houton ferry, though you can also travel as a foot passenger from Moaness and use the local buses.

Kirkwall was very busy thanks to an American cruise ship docking for the day — which the dogs thought was brilliant. They became instant celebrities, stopping every few metres for fusses, photos and compliments.

The town itself has a mix of mainstream shops and lovely boutique craft stores. We did struggle to find places offering proper lunch — lots of cafés for drinks and snacks, but fewer actual eateries.

Kirkwall felt a little like any other small Scottish town, but I’d have loved more time to explore its rich history. St Magnus Cathedral was utterly stunning inside and out — peaceful, grand and full of stories.

6. Many an Adventure in the Water

Being the water babies we are, it wouldn’t have been a holiday without a few cold dips. Evening paddle boarding (and pushing each other off) in the bay at the end of the garden, closely watched by the resident seals — including one ever‑so‑inquisitive one we endearingly named Neill.

Ruairidh, our son, body‑boarded in the wild waves at Rackwick Bay, and we squeezed in a rainy paddle on the causeway at Longhope. Everywhere you look, the water entices you and tempts you to dip your toe. Take your brave pills and jump in — you won’t regret it.

🌅 Final Thoughts: Why Hoy Was Exactly What We Needed

Hoy wasn’t just a holiday — it was a reset. A chance to slow down, breathe deeper, laugh harder and remember what it feels like to simply enjoy being together. The island gave us wild cliffs, peaceful beaches, history that stopped us in our tracks, food that warmed the soul, and the kind of family moments we’ll be talking about for years.

We arrived with three excitable cocker spaniels, two teenagers, two grandparents and a van packed like a Jenga tower, and somehow Hoy absorbed the chaos and handed us back calm. Even on the busiest days — surfing wipeouts, cliff walks, ferry crossings, dog‑induced celebrity status in Kirkwall — the island had a way of grounding us.

It’s not flashy. It’s not crowded. It doesn’t try to impress you. Hoy just is — wild, honest, beautiful — and that’s exactly why it works its magic.

We left with tired legs, sandy shoes, full hearts and a promise to ourselves: explore more of our own Scotland and return to Orkney in the future for some possible tent‑box adventures. There are so many islands, so many views, so many quiet corners waiting for us. But Hoy will always be special — the place where we slowed down, switched off, and remembered how good it feels to just be together.

If you’re looking for somewhere peaceful, dramatic, full of character and perfect for families (and dogs who enjoy becoming minor celebrities), Hoy might just be the place for you too.